Showing posts with label Hints and Tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hints and Tips. Show all posts

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Upgrading Your New Road Bike





Pulling up alongside a new rider recently, a discussion ensued about future upgrades for his bike.  The rider concerned was riding a Specialized Allez, which I have to say is a very good first bike (the bike I got started on).  My answer to him was to focus on contact points on the bike and to work on those first.  What do I mean: -

Bike Bits
  • Tyres (contact with the ground).
  • Brake blocks (contact with the rims).
  • Saddle (contact with your backside).

Clothing Bits
  • Gloves (contact with the bars).
  • Shoes (contact with the pedals).
  • Bib shorts (contact with the saddle).
When you've just bought your first bike, it's really difficult to know the difference on any of the things above - a bike is a bike, isn't it?  But like everything in life, there is a big difference in choice, comfort and capability when you dig beneath the surface.

There are lots of products to choose from, a few recommendations from my side would be: -

Bike Bits
  •  Tyres - Continental GP4000S 25MM (good puncture protection, rolling resistance and comfort.
  • Brake Blocks - Shimano Ultegra or Kool Stop.
  • Saddle - I use Selle Italia (fits my sit bones best).  More about choosing the right saddle here.
Clothing Bits
  • Gloves.  You'll need a few pairs of gloves for different riding conditions.  I always keep an eye out in the sales on the main on-line retailers.  Look for well known brands like Castelli and see if you can grab a bargain.
  • Shoes.  A good pair to get started with are the Specialized Sport Road shoe (particularly if you have wide feet) for around £60 (exc cleats).  I owned a pair of these for three years and they did the job.  Consider buying the foot inserts too for around £20, they make the world of difference.
  • Bib shorts.  Don't buy cheap here!  Read the reviews carefully on sites like Wiggle or Chain Reaction cycles first, see what other cyclists are saying.  I've used Bioracer for years as they are very comfortable and technically very good.  Expect to spend £70+ to get a decent pair.
You'll quickly realise that your new hobby gets you on addiction train of new stuff and bike upgrades.  If you focus on tyres and brake blocks first, you'll see a big improvement in the bike - a good quick win for your new ride.

Friday, 4 July 2014

St. John Ambulance - Cycling Accident App


We all run the risk of accident, simply via statistical probability.  Whether yourself or a fellow rider, acting quickly in the event is vital, seconds can count if someone is seriously injured and it's important to know what action to take.

St John Ambulance has today launched a new free first aid app for cyclists.  With three million people now cycling three times a week or more[1], they have created the app to ensure cyclists are equipped with the essential skills to help others in an emergency.

This comes on the day the Department for Transport[2] announces a rise in the number of all cycling casualties, up 2% from 2012, in comparison to the falling number of injuries/fatalities for all other road user types. The highest increase in casualties is amongst adults aged 18-59 years reporting a 5% rise. Overall killed and seriously injured figures have come down (by 10%) but slightly injured figures have risen by 3%, and this is where first aid can be the difference.  

The app was created using the expertise of the charity’s medically trained staff and SJA’s Cycle Response Unit, their team of highly trained first aid volunteers who use specially equipped mountain bikes, and can be first at the scene of an accident.

To put some context around it, St John Ambulance have provided some statistics below: -

Figures on cycling accidents[3]
·         Around 75% of fatal or serious cyclist accidents occur in urban areas
·         Around half of cyclist fatalities occur on rural roads
·         75% happen at, or near, a road junction
·         80% occur in daylight
·         80% of cyclist casualties are male
·         Almost one quarter of the cyclists killed or injured are children
·         Around three quarters of cyclists killed have major head injuries.

With the data being in the form of an app, it's easy to access and provides plain, easy to understand instructions for you to follow, I'#d recommend you download it.  For further information visit www.sja.org.uk/cycling.



Sunday, 16 March 2014

Saddle Up!

One of the most important contact points on your bike is your saddle.  For some, it can seem like a never ending search trying to find one that you feel comfortable with.  If you check out eBay, you'll see lots of 'only ridden once' ad, always a bargain or two to be had!

Starting out, I tested a few and finally settled on the Selle Italia Gel Flow saddle as being the one that suited me best.  I now ride this saddle on all three of my bikes as it seems to provide the right balance between comfort and performance, with minimal chafing and rub (that's not a sales pitch for Selle Italia by the way, just my preferred choice after a lot of trial and error).

Saddles are quite an individual thing.  Each of us has different sit bones, so the search for the right fit can be a long one.  You can narrow your choices down by figuring out how wide apart your sit bones are (one of those things that I wish I'd known before trialling so many saddles).  The short video at the end of this article will quickly demonstrate how you can figure that out.

It's not just about your sit bones, it's also about your physique and position on the bike.  If you big muscly legs, you'll likely want a saddle with a narrow profile at the front.  If you ride with quite an aggressive position, you'll likely want a short stubby front end.  My position on the bike is quite neutral and the top of my legs are not huge, so the Selle Italia saddle above is perfect for me.

The other thing you might want to consider is a cut out in the saddle (see picture).  This provides some relief to your 'crown jewels' whether male or female, handy on longer rides.  When you've found the right saddle it's also important to sort out the right height plus fore/aft position.  You can find some previous articles I've written on this below: -

Tips for saddle comfort.  Click here.
Configuring the Correct Saddle height.  Click here.
Configuring your saddle Fore/Aft position.  Click here. 

If you're planning to get into road cycling in a big way, then I'd recommend that you think about upgrading your saddle.  When you buy your first bike, they generally come with a basic saddle, which may not be best for you.  You can upgrade for around £50, which is well worth the investment if you're planning to spend a long time out munching the miles. 


Sunday, 12 January 2014

Riding in Icy Conditions


It's always a difficult call when the weather has been cold overnight as to whether conditions the following morning are going to be OK to ride in.  As a rule of thumb, if it's been freezing overnight, I tend not to ride the following day due to risk of black ice.

Kicking in to 2014, I was keen to get some solid miles in.  January 2013 saw me cover 224 miles in total,  2012 was 204 miles, primarily due to cold weather conditions.  With only one ride last weekend, I had some catching up to do, so although cold overnight I resolved to get out.  Key things to consider when riding in icy conditions are: -

1) Dressing appropriately.
2) Choosing an appropriate route.
3) Slowing down.
4) Whether to go out or stay in and do some intervals instead!

Each to their own, I opted to go out.  There was the familiar crunch underneath the tyres indicating that the roads were likely to be precarious, so conclusion was to keep the ride on main roads.  I only had a couple of hours and had lower miles on the clock yesterday due to a puncture, so I was keen in the couple of hours I had to get out and get some miles in.

As I rode, a few things came in to my head about ride safety in such conditions.  Passing a big peloton of club riders, I thought they were pretty mad personally to ride in a tight group given the unpredictable road conditions. The thoughts I had were: -

1) Running on wider tyres (25mm/28mm) gives you more rubber on the road.
2) The importance of carrying a foil blanket in your back pocket.  If you do go over unsuspectingly, it's vital to keep warm.  For a couple of quid, this is something that will assist you or a fellow cyclist in an emergency.
3) Using the back brake more than the front to avoid losing the front end.
4) The importance of carrying 'ICE' information.  See previous blogpost here about Road Life ID which I use.
5) Going out a bit later to allow the sun to rise and do its work.
6) Steering clear of the gutter at the side of the road, where ice is most likely to form due to lack of salt on the road.
7) Taking turns a bit wider and slower than normal.

Despite a couple of wobbles on unexpected black ice, slowing down on today's ride and keeping things smooth and predictable, it meant the very cold part of the morning around 8.15am passed without drama.  30 miles more in the bag, 121 in total so far this month.

Pump/Valve Incompatibility

It was in contrast to yesterday, which was nearly a write off, with very wet conditions.  There was a lot of surface water and riding through a puddle - bang - I hit a hidden pothole, something I'd previously blogged to beware of!  Straight away, the tyre went down and I had a pinch puncture.  

Usual pack drill, wheel off, tyre off, tube out, I can do it in my sleep now, but I had a repeat of a previous problem.  When removing the hose of my Lezyne Pressure drive pump after inflating the tyre, it also undid the valve inside the Continental inner tube, rendering me unable to pump the tyre up as the valve was completely removed from the tube.

Same thing happened at the back end of last year but I put it down to the long 80mm valves on my deep section rims, thankfully a passing fellow cyclist lent me his pump with a standard press-on fitting and everything was fine.

Conclusion is I've permanently retired the Lezyne pump as I can't have that happening on a ride.  Prior to that it hasn't happened to me before, so it could also be a batch of tubes that I purchased where the valves weren't tight enough in the tube.

Anyhow, it was also a great reminder when passing someone to always ask if everything is OK?  

Here's to a Great 2014

With the New Year firmly upon us, I wish you safe, epic and wind assisted miles, whatever your goals.  For me, it's all about continuing to use the bike as a tool to stay fit, think clearly and see some amazing countryside whilst riding with some great like minded people.  Chapeau!

Saturday, 5 October 2013

Switching to 25mm Tyres

Today I had a fascinating discussion with Peter 'Spike' Taylor of ProTool Cycleworks.  Former Head Mechanic of British Cycling about 25mm tyres and how these should now be considered the default tyre for British road cyclists.

Taylor, who was part of the marginal gains programme within British Cycling under Sir Dave Brailsford, is an absolute superbrain on anything technical relating to bikes.  He used to build and maintain the bikes used by the top professionals and is part of the squad supporting the Rapha Condor JLT race team.

Visiting the ProTool Cycleworks centre in The Fell store in Whalley to have a cassette swapped on some wheels, I asked the guys to inspect the tyres I had following my spate of punctures.  

Conclusion was that the rear tyre was worn and would benefit from a replacement, the guys went straight for a 25mm Continental GP4000S.  It led to me asking Spike about tyres and I then recorded around 14 mins of a 20 minute explanation he gave me around tyre technology and why 25mm should be the default tyre size for road cyclists.  It was an unplanned conversation with a hastily switched on phone, so ignore the background stuff.

The explanation was technical, so simplifying this, the advantages are: -
  • Ride Comfort.
  • Better Puncture Resistance & Reliability.
  • Better aerodynamic profiling given the trend for wider rims (less air disruption)
Through the wonders of cloud technology, I captured most of our chat on my iPhone and have put it below for you to listen to unedited.  You can find out more about ProTool Cycleworks here and you can follow them on Twitter here.  Details on the ProTool service centre within the new Beacon store in Whalley, called The Fell_01 can be found here.

 

Saturday, 6 July 2013

5 blogposts for a road cycling beginner


Meeting a rider out on the road today and assisting with a few bits of saddle positioning (height + fore/aft), it reminded me that there is quite a lot to learn when you are a new cyclist.  It was my primary reason for starting this blog and sharing things that I had picked up along the way.  

When you get a new bike, it's really important to get a few things sorted quickly.  Namely, your contact points, your saddle bag and how to fix a puncture!

These five blogposts below, will help fast track you on the key things you need to do, to get your new steed set-up and to equip you with the tools and tips you need to get back up and running quickly, if you get a flat.
  1. Getting the right saddle position.  Blog here.
  2. Getting the right saddle height.  Blog here.
  3. Tips for saddle comfort.  Blog here. 
  4. 10 tips for replacing an inner tube.  Blog here.
  5. 10 things to carry on your bike in your saddle bag.  Blog here.

Monday, 6 May 2013

Riding Faster is a Slow Business


When you first get into road cycling, you want to ride as fast as you can, completely understandable, particularly if you have a new bike.  Your early rides will involve you going out and riding as hard as you can, either with mates who have started at the same time as you or on your own.

It's only when you start to ride with stronger and faster riders do you realise that you may need to lift your average speed up quite a bit, to hang in a group or go on a club ride.  I've been riding for around four years now and consider myself an average rider based upon the amount of time I can devote to cycling.  I'm more in it for the personal fitness and thinking time than anything else, but also do like to see some steady improvement in exchange for the miles.

This weekend, I've covered 185 miles on the bike over three days and am really feeling the benefit of my planned training.  Day one was an easy 50 mile spin in preparation for a faster ride the following day, my average speed was 15.7mph.  Day two was an undulating 70 miles route at higher pace (avg speed 17.2mph), today was a 65 miles recovery ride at 16.2mph.  The main thing is not to beat yourself up if you don't always come back faster, a good headwind can knock you right back.

Average speed is impacted by so many factors including wind, ascent, weather, road surfaces, sole/group rides however when you ride a bit on your own you'll quickly figure out which rides are similar to judge your progress.

I've spent the last three months really focusing on building a strong aerobic base fitness.  Between Jan-March, I put around 910 miles in, and this established the basic fitness to ride distances.  This mostly involves riding at a controlled heart rate with lots of people whizzing past you.

During April, I've been working a lot more on intensity, taking on harder rides at a higher heart rate.  During each of the months my average speed has been creeping up, whilst my heart rate has stayed constant (meaning improving fitness).  On yesterday's ride (17.2mph) I felt the best I had all year.  Between April and May month to date, I've covered 523 miles with 21K ascent.

It helped yesterday having stronger riders in the group pushing the pace as it made me push myself harder.  What was clear to me is that the patience in putting in the building blocks has been well worth it and when you ride with a strong rider, you realise just how far you still have to go, but how far you've come too.  

My next major breakthrough would be to lose weight.  I've got the essentials in place now in terms of fitness and my ability to climb at pace is now the key focus for me.  On the flats I'm happy to motor along at 20-22mph generally, it's only on the hills that I find it harder to keep up.  If I could knock off 10kg, I'd probably go from being average to OK!

The message is this.  If you a new rider and wanting to get quicker, take your time.  Give yourself a few months of building fitness and try and ride as regularly as you can.  I ride around 100 miles a week, mostly at the weekends and this has been good enough to get me in a place where my fitness is good and my speed 'good enough' for what I want to do on the bike.  

Jot down all your rides so you can get some quality data.  I use Garmin Connect and upload all my ride info, which makes comparisons really easy, then measure your progress and work towards specific goals.  Doing lung busting rides will simply yo-yo your fitness and likely make progress slower than necessary. 

Wednesday, 16 January 2013

50 tips for a new road cyclist


New to road cycling?  If so, welcome!  I was like you back in 2009, renewing my love of the bike after a twenty year break.  Since then, I've learned lots and met a huge amount of people through my readership here and through my Twitter following.  


In no particular order, I've pulled together  50 random tips from my own experience and the contributions of some readers to help you improve, learn about road cycling and help you fast track your ability and knowledge as a new road cyclist.
  1. Always carry a gel with you.  Not only will it help if you run out of energy but it also makes a handy inside tyre liner to get you home if you gash your tyre.
  2. Get your saddle height right.  Read here on how to do it yourself.
  3. Be seen.  Wear bright, high visiblity clothing.
  4. Always wear a helmet, whatever the weather.  Go and try it on, get the fit exactly right.  It has a very important job to do!
  5. Buy some arm warmers, they are so useful to pull up and push down when trying to regulate your body temperature.  Particularly good if you are going on a ride with lots of climbing. 
  6. Buy a cadence and heart rate monitor.  Read this previous article by a cycling coach on the importance of training use heart rate zones.  Speed = Gears + Effort + Cadence.
  7. Buy cleats (clip in pedals and shoes) as soon as you have mastered your bike/gears etc, they will make you pedal much more efficiently and ultimately make you ride faster.  Here's my Top 10 tips for learning to use them.
  8. Ride with a minimum cadence (pedal revolution speed) of 85rpm plus.
  9. Don't buy cheap stuff, you invariably buy twice as it wears out quickly.
  10. You're unlikely to need sports drinks/gels on short rides of less than forty miles.
  11. Build up slowly, you're not going to be Bradley Wiggins without plenty of good quality miles under your belt.
  12. Use chamois cream to help prevent saddle soreness.  See what pro rider Andy Tennant users from a previous interview with him.
  13. Ensure your saddle bag has the right components in it to get you moving when riding on your own.  Here's what I carry in mine.
  14. Keep your chain well oiled.  WD40 is more of a cleaner than a lubricant, buy a good cycle lubricant (only about six pounds a bottle).
  15. Always wear glasses when you ride, whatever the weather.  They prevent grit or stones flicking up into your eyes.
  16. Always ride with lights in dusk or dark conditions - a mandatory!
  17. Eat before you're hungry, drink before your thirsty - all the pro's do this.  Nothing worse than "bonking" (running out of energy) on a ride. 
  18. Have a freezer bag (or dedicated sealable carrier) in your back pocket at all times with your phone, some money plus a credit card.  You never know when you might get stranded.
  19. Carry ICE information.  Read this.
  20. Try not to gesticulate with drivers.  You'll quickly realise that you'll be beeped at a lot when you hit the road, failing to rise to it keeps you safe.  If you are faced with a dangerous driver, take down their details and report them afterwards.
  21. Join a club or ask a more experienced rider to take you out.  You'll benefit massively from their experience.
  22. Get your bike serviced regularly.  A poorly maintained bike will be just that.
  23. Buy some crudguards or mountable mudguards for the winter to protect your bike, keep the rain off you or your ride partners.
  24. Don't lock your arms out when riding on the hoods (the brake/gear levers), keep them flexible at all times with a bend in them to absorb the road bumps.
  25. Don't worry that everyone is riding quicker than you.  We all start somewhere and I did more than my fair share of huffing and puffing up what I thought were hills, they were just long drags.  You will improve in time if you stick with it.
  26. Get fitted on your bike.  Most new cyclists are too high in their saddle or too low, massively impacting on pedalling efficiency.
  27. Learn how to fix a puncture in the comfort of your own home first by taking your wheel out of your bike, deflating your inner tube, removing it and re-installing it.  Read my 10 point survival guide.
  28. Never wear headphones when you ride.  You need total spatial awareness on the road at all times.
  29. When approaching a junction, make sure you are in the right gear to accelerate off. Don't coast up and leave it in a hard gear. This means you get your pedal round quickly to clip in and you have the acceleration to make gaps. If you have a big gear engaged, you won't be away quick enough.
  30. Don't drink when going down a hill. Descending is very technical and you need all your reactions to control the bike and - more importantly - keep your hands on the levers.
  31. When going up a hill, don't grind a big gear. Some people can, big respect to them. The general idea is to keep your heart rate in a controllable zone so you don't blow up. It's better to spin an easier gear which you can sustain for a longer period.
  32. When going up a hill, keep as cool as possible. Unzip your jacket, peel off those layers and let the heat escape. You'll quickly start generating heat as you really push those pedals and the hotter you are, the harder it gets.
  33. Learn how gear ratios work.  Read this blogpost to give you the lowdown.
  34. If riding with someone else, share the workload and stay as close as you can to the person in front of you (their back wheel). It gives you enormous benefits in saving energy, around 25% if you get it right. If you drift off someone's wheel, try and get back there, all experienced cyclists always ride tight to conserve energy.
  35. Check your tyre pressures regularly. It's amazing how much extra speed you can generate when your tyres are at full pressure. You can conserve precious energy by this simple regular check. You can find the optimum pressures on your tyre sidewall.
  36. If you've recently purchased a bike, consider to change the brake blocks. Most bikes under £1K have budget blocks on them and it's well worth spending £30-£40 on a decent set of upgrades, they are one of the most important elements of your cycling, being able to stop!
  37. Increase your pedalling efficiency by learning how to "scrape through" - read this to explain how/what to do. 
  38. Invest in some tools. See what former pro-bike mechanic Mike Jackson recommends in a previous guest blogpost.
  39. Keep stretching yourself by entering events.  It gives you motivation to train and key milestones to aim for.
  40. Find a riding partner.  Fantastic to get you up and out on those cold or wet mornings.
  41. Wear a base layer when you ride. The weather can change out on rides, even when it's cold, you can be warm as your engine is busy turning the pedals. A base layer helps to wick away sweat, preventing rashes and sores. If it's sweltering out, don't bother as your cycling top should do the job for you, when it gets a bit cooler, you should stick one on under your top.
  42. Wash your bike regularly.  Don't use a jet washer on it, use a good cleaning product like Purple Harry and rinse off with a conventional hose without too much pressure to stop it getting into your drivetrain.  Baby wipes are a great cleaning product for your
  43. Record your ride data somewhere.  There's nothing more motivational than seeing how you are improving.  I started with a spreadsheet and then moved it all into Garmin Training Centre when I acquired a Garmin Edge 800 ride computer.
  44. Work on your core fitness and strength in addition to cycling on your bike. Cycling can be quite one-dimensional in giving you good aerobic fitness however to ride faster, you need to strength train in other areas too.
  45. Get your saddle fore/aft position right.  Tips on how to do it here. 
  46. Learn to love hills.  Most people avoid them when starting out yet they are an essential part of making you fitter and stronger on the bike.  Read this article to get you focused. 
  47. Put two bottle cages on your bike.  For longer rides, it's essential to carry enough fluid to keep you hydrated.
  48. Eat protein within 20 minutes of returning home from a long ride.  A small golden window exists for you to push some muscle assisting protein into your body to assist with muscle repair, prepare it before you go out.
  49. Learn the basics of bike maintenance.  In particular, keeping your bike well oiled, torqued and clean.  It will preserve the value of your bike in the long term and maintain residual value and ensure faultless performance when riding.
  50. Always give another road cyclist a nod when you're out.  If they don't nod back, then that's their problem. If passing someone, a "good morning" goes a long way.  I've met some great people out on the road just by asking "Going Far?".
There are lots more tips which I'll keep collating and posting, if you think I've missed something essential, please drop a comment in the box below. 

Friday, 11 May 2012

Core Fitness


Sort your core fitness out to get faster
I've been road cycling for about two and half years now and in that time there's no doubt that I'm better on a bike now than I was in 2009.  I've enjoyed the initial weight loss, getting faster, overcoming hills, riding my first 100 miles and - more importantly - acquiring bikes!

In June, I'll be riding London to Paris in three days and I've been thinking about my weight, my stamina and my core strength, prior to the ride.  I spend a lot of time on my rear. I drive to work, spend all day in meetings or at my desk, sit down in the restaurant for lunch, I'm regularly on trains, planes or sat at my home PC blogging.  When I'm not doing that I'm sat in a saddle on a bike, see what I mean?

Although I've done some reasonable miles, I don't seem to be getting any faster and my ride averages have stayed pretty much the same.  My weight has bottomed out, so despite riding 100 miles or so a week, it isn't impacting on my weight.  I know my cardiac fitness is good from my last BUPA test, however my body fat had increased.

Total Cycling Performance

A little while back I was contacted by Simon Vincent of Total Cycling Performance in South Wales and invited down for a full assessment of my composition and body conditioning. I don't get to South Wales much on business, so taking advantage of a recent trip down, I called in to see Simon at his home studio.

I love people like Simon - a new business, going less than a year - he's one of those people that has given up a successful career to do something he loves, sports science driven body conditioning and assessment.  In many ways, he reminded me of Craig Middleton at Onix Bikes who did the same thing (following his passion).

Simons set up is in his back garden.  A large studio full of gym equipment and gizmos for measuring, assessing and training his clients.  I have to be honest, I was a little nervous as - apart from the bike - I don't do anything else for fitness and I've never been a strongman.  I knew my core strength needed improving, but I had no idea what my base was.

Ground Zero

After a pre-assessment of my diet, exercise and lifestyle it was on to the physical bit.  Leg presses, extensions, arm presses, grip strength, lat pulldowns, flexibility measurements, lung capacity, body fat make up, hydration, wattbike pedalling analysis, maximum heart rate and core muscle tests to name but a few, Simon gave his assessment - basically, my core strength is really poor.  The only saving grace was an above average lung capacity, pedal stroke was OK (but still with room for improvement) and my back strength was higher than average.  In all other elements, it was lower quartile - ouch.



Get off the bike

Simon gave me some initial feedback and followed that up with a 20 page report with all of his findings, but more importantly his recommendations.  A complete change to my diet, my hydration, my time in the saddle and my fitness regime, including joining a gym, fundamentally, riding a lot less.

Explaining the science behind the metabollism, it quickly dawned on me that there were some big changes needed.  By increasing my core strength and losing some weight through effective management of diet and time in the gym, I can make the progress I need to nail London to Paris.



The Metrics

I love data.  It takes the guesswork out of it and makes it factual.  Simon collects data as he conducts his tests and then presents it back to you, comparing against what you should be capable of.  Here's a few of the statistics: -

Leg Press.  You should be able to press x3.5 your bodyweight. I could do x2.1.
The Plank (see picture).  You should be able to hold about 90 seconds.  I held about 20 seconds (now up to 45 with some more practice).
Leg Extension.   You should be able to do 0.45 x your bodyweight.  My target should be around 43kg.  I could do 25kg.

The Plank
You get the story?   Basically all to play for.  So where do we go from here?  Simon wrote me a twelve week fitness plan, broken down by day.  In it, full details are given as to what exercise I need to do, number of repetitions or sessions on the wattbike or out on the road.  Combined with this is also a recommendation as to my diet, calories I need to eat with the correct balance of protein, fat and carbohydrates. 

Making the Change

The big changes I have to make are to drink a lot more water, upping intake to 3L a day and eating a lot more natural protein in my diet through nuts, lean meat and fish. Milk has to be switched to full fat, bread only after a training session and in limited amounts, 9-12 portions of fruit and vegetables leading to a re-balancing of my body make-up. More stretching is needed to increase my suppleness, dynamic stretching sessions make a frequent appearance in the 12 week plan.


Simon’s unique approach to nutrition also advocates the use of absolutely no synthetic protein shakes, vitamin supplements, or other man made versions of nutrients that as he put it “can all get provided by Mother Nature given a little planning and organisation”.


My aim is to look to lose around 1kg a week of fat through steady and consistent management of my diet, exercise and to also gain a significant amount of additional cycling strength and power, through a structured and targeted strength training regime of just 2 sessions per week. By doing this, I should radically improve my base strength and power to weight ratio, resulting in better miles on the bike - we'll see.

I'm about four days in and I've never drunk so much water, been to the loo so much or consumed so much white meat. It's had some immediate impacts in that I'm not snacking, reaching for sugary things like biscuits around 4pm, I've given up sugar in coffee too. The scales seem to like it as my body seems to already be adjusting to the new diet and dipping in to my fat reserves.

I'll keep reporting back on progress, it's good to have a plan to follow, something personal to you as an individual, written around your body, your lifestyle and your areas requiring improvement specific to improving your total cycling performance.

A session with Simon in South Wales to assess your all round cycling ability, but perhaps most importantly the full physiological weaknesses within your current training and nutrition practices preventing you becoming a more efficient, faster and stronger cyclist starts from £75.00. I think that’s money very well spent as you can then focus your future training on smarter rather than longer sessions, in order to get a lot closer to realising your true cycling potential.

If you're really brave, you can book in the local hotel and then go and ride some Welsh mountains afterwards.  Erm, anyone seen my car keys?

Sunday, 15 April 2012

Correct Saddle Height for your Road Bike

Ideal Knee Angle for Optimal Seat Height
Getting your saddle height right is one of the first things you should consider when taking delivery of your first bike.  If you don't you, you may lose energy through an efficient downstroke or uncomfortableness or injury by being too high or too low.

It's a common mistake to put the saddle up too high.  You can spot someone that is too high as their hips rock from side to side when they are cycling, by being too high you are not optimising the strength in your legs to get maximum power.

There's lots of ways which people may recommend to get the correct saddle height like 88.3% of your inseam or just straightening your leg out and putting your heel on your pedal.  All have their ups and downs.

One of the most reliable ways to figure it out is to get the old protractor out to look at the angle of your leg from your knee.



I'd recommend using this quick on-line calculator to get your initial seat height as a starting point, it should be pretty close.  When you've got that done, position the protractor on the knobbly bit of your knee and see what angle your knee joint is at the bottom of the downstroke.  Normally, around 155 degrees is where it should be at for the optimum to stop your hips rocking.

Ready, Set, Go

It will feel very different at first if you have been running your saddle too high.  In fact, you'll feel very strange and you'll be tempted to put it back up again - don't.   You'll find very quickly that you'll adjust to the new position.  In the beginning, you'll start to feel your quads really come into play.


Your quads are the muscle set above your knee which are one of the most important muscle groups for cyclists.  By bringing your saddle down, you'll be using your quads a lot more to push the pedals and you'll develop more leg strength.  So, stick with it and it and you'll really begin to get some benefit as your muscle group develops. As usual, if you have any pre-existing medical conditions, consult a professional.

Sunday, 8 April 2012

Road Bike Gear Ratio Table

Gear Ratios are Important for Climbing

One of the most common questions I get on the blog relates to gear ratios, most commonly framed around people struggling to get up hills. It can be demoralising when you see people flying up hills and you're panting away - I've been there.  Being 210Ibs in weight, physics tells me that I'll never be challenging for a Polka dot jersey!

What I did learn however is that  you can make it easier on yourself by having a review of the rear cassette on your bike.  It's one of the quickest and easiest things you can do to make things easier when hauling yourself up an incline.

First thing you need to do is establish what your current gear ratio set up is. There are are two ways to check this: -

1.  Look up your bike spec on the web and see what it comes with as standard (quickest way).
2.  Count the number of teeth on the front chainset and on your rear cassette (the teeth on the back wheel - count the largest and the smallest of the rings).

There are three different types of commonly used front chainsets: -

a) Standard - 53 teeth on the biggest ring/39 on the small (53/39).
b) Compact - 50 on the biggest ring/34 on on the small (50/34).
c) Triple - 50 teeth on the biggest ring/39 on the middle ring/30 on the smaller ring (50/39/30).

In terms of rear cassettes, there are a number of different cassettes you can buy and bikes are sold with a range of different cassettes on them, so have a quick look on the web and see if you can find yours.

Next Steps

Once you've established this, you can quickly figure out whether there is anything to be gained from a rear cassette change.  Basically, the higher the number on your rear cassette, the easier it will be to push the pedals when climbing up hills.  When you get stronger and fitter, you might want to change cassette again, it doesn't always have to stay the same as your gearing should match your capability/strength.

I've compiled this table below, showing the gear ratios for all three front chainsets, so you can quickly compare if a cassette change would be advantageous for you (if you click on the image, it will open in a new window).  I've highlighted the row in yellow as many road bikes are sold with a 12-25 cassette on from the showroom.
 
Road Bike Gear Ratio Chart - www.race-pace.net

 What does this show?

Even if you have a bike with a standard front chainset (53/39 and rear cassette of 25) which gives you a lowest gear ratio of 39/25 (1.56), you could achieve a similar gear ratio to a bike with a  compact chainset (50/34 with a rear cassette of 25 - ratio of 1.36) by switching your rear cassette to a 29 tooth (lowest gear ratio of 39/29, giving a ratio of 1.34).

How Low Should You Go?

Basically, the lower you get the ratio, the easier your pedals will be to push.  You have to remember that it's a balance as if you make things too easy, you may end up spinning like crazy and not going very far.

In my experience, a gear ratio of 1.1 or higher should get you up just about anything if you are new to cycling, overweight or just want the capacity to give yourself some breathing space on a bad day in the saddle.

When you are first starting out, you will need lower ratios whilst you build your fitness and stamina up.  My suggestion would always be - if buying your first road bike - to ask them to fit a 27T rear cassette, which will give you more capability. As you get fitter and stronger, then you can change your rear cassette to say a 25T if appropriate.  I run 34/27 on my climbing bike and my winter bike and 39/25 on my speed machine (I steer clear of hills on this one and ride it on flatter, faster routes).

Weight a Minute

One important point to note about gearing relative to hill climbing is your body weight, so it's worth a quick mention.  The lighter you are, the easier you should find it to go up hills on the principle that your weight + bike weight = total weight to haul up.  When combined with your output power (otherwise known as Power to Weight ratio or PWR per Kg) you will quickly realise that someone who is 126Ibs in weight and fit, will always beat you to the top of a hill.

If you are at the heavier end of the scale, selecting the right gear will give you more capacity to keep up.  We can't all be King of the Mountains, but getting your ratio right for your build will make it inherently more enjoyable.  See you at the top!

Thursday, 29 March 2012

Tips for Saddle Comfort

Long Days in the Saddle

I had a question via the blog on tips to prevent saddle soreness.  As you do more miles, inevitably you have your John Wayne moment when your backside feels uncomfortable to say the least.  It's not 100% avoidable, however here are five tips to minimise discomfort: -

1) Make sure your saddle is level.  Use a spirit level on the saddle to get it just so and ensure that you fully benefit from the design..
2) Wallop a load of chamois cream around your nether regions before a long ride.  In a previous interview with Rapha-Condor Sharp rider Andy Tennant, he swears by Boots Aqueous cream.   I subsequently bought a big pot of it for about six quid and I have to say it works.
3) Wear a decent pair of shorts with a very good chamois pad.  Your backside is one of the most important contact points on the bike to take care of if you fancy taking road cycling seriously.  Buy the best you can afford and don't wear underwear underneath your lycra, go commando, that's the whole point of it - to prevent chaffing.
4) Invest in a decent saddle.  Our backsides are all different and it can take a bit of trial and error to get it right.  After trying about six saddles, I settled on the Selle Italia Gelle Flow Max Flite which has a centre cut out to relieve pressure on the perinium area and gel pads at the back.  Without a doubt the best saddle I've tried and ridden by lots of roadies.
5) Get your saddle fore/aft position right.  You'll need a plumbline and a wall for this.  Sit on your bike with your pedals level at the quarter past nine position.  Position the plumbline against the knobbly bit on the side of your knee, of the forward facing leg and let it drop.  The plumbline should go straight through the centre of your pedal spindle.  If it doesn't, adjust your saddle backwards/forwards until it does.  This will mean that your downstroke is optimal and you're not overly stretching or putting undue pressure on the crown jewels.

Sunday, 30 October 2011

What State are you in?

My Route Today - Split into Sections
Last week, I met a really interesting guy at a conference I was hosting, his name is David Yeoman.  David is a behavioural and language strategist, working with elite sportspeople and business leaders, believing that your "state" - that is your mental state -  thoughts, feelings and actions, can be adjusted at any time, through words and behaviour.  David talked about being able to define a number of states that you trigger based upon circumstances.  Have a look at his website here.

Setting out on a 50m hilly ride today, I took some time to reflect on the things I'd heard from him when he spoke and thought how this applied to my ride.  For a lot of new cyclists, the thought of hills, strikes fear to their very core.  It's understandable, I've been there.  Hills hurt, they need a lot of effort, they test you and can be de-motivating if you have to get off.  Best avoided in favour of a flat route?  No.

To really enjoy road cycling, you need to turn hills into a "positive" in your mind, not to be avoided, but embraced as part of your overall enjoyment of being out on the road.  Thinking about my "state" when going up some testing short and sharp climbs today, here's where I was at: -

Hill Climbing State
  • Focused on pedalling rhythm and cadence consistency.
  • Focused on consistent and regular breathing to keep my heart rate under control.
  • Focused on breaking the climb up into various little staging posts of success.
  • Focused on the immediate piece of road ahead, more looking down than up.
  • Hands on the top of the bars to open the chest up.
  • Focused on being relaxed, arms bent.
Major positive outcome.  By getting to the top of the climb I can enjoy the descent at the top and some great views.  

Descending State

  • Focused on controlling the bike, hands on the drops and brakes.
  • Focused on recovering my heart rate.
  • Focused on the longer road ahead, looking up and in the distance to identify potential points of concern (potholes, road debris, corners).
  • Focussed on keeping the bike balanced, weight centre, ready to shift weight if needed for cornering.
  • Focussed on being alert, ready to quickly adapt to a changing situation.
Major positive outcome.  All that effort going up that hill has allowed me to enjoy this exhilarating descent.

So, in other words, I now view hills as a way of accessing great descents, which I really enjoy.  Being 15 stone, I can descend more quickly than most, gravity is on my side going down, less going up, where it works against me.  So, some additional principles that I keep in my head.

  • My objective is to get up the hill without stopping, I'm never going to be the quickest.
  • I can't compete with a 24 year old or someone who is 10 stone in weight.
  • I love descending, so get to the top on my terms, to enjoy the thrill of the other side.
So, accepting that I'm not Robert Millar in the mountains, allows me to approach the hill on my terms.  By changing my "state" to my "hill climbing state" I can ready myself mentally for the incline and ultimately the descent, where I get my payoff.

One other tip is to have a look at the proposed route if you can and break it up in your mind.  You can see from todays route profile that I mentally had it as four parts, a warm up with a long drag, two hard bits in the middle, a hard bit at the end followed by a long descent home to look forward to.  By doing this, you can mentally tick off elements of the ride as you achieve them, resulting in a feeling of satisfaction and increasing motivation to carry on.

Hills needn't be your nemesis, they are an essential component of building your strength, technique and fitness.  See them positively, build up slowly and you will soon master them.


Sunday, 9 October 2011

Houston, we've got a mechanical....

When you ride in larger groups, mechanicals and punctures have a propensity to appear with more frequency than normal.  Additionally, if you ride longer distances on your own, you need to be able to have the confidence to deal with a mechanical on the move.

Having a well equipped saddle bag, should allow you to cover most issues on the bike, however it is surprising how ill equipped some riders are when dealing with an issue on the move.  I run two saddlebags, using the same clip mounting mechanism on my rear saddle, allowing me to swap them over.

Bag one is my standard saddlebag.  It contains the following: -

  1. A spare inner tube
  2. A CO2 inflator and x2 gas cannisters
  3. A link removal tool in the event of a chain snap.
  4. An SRAM chain link, which allows you to connect your chain.  Only a few quid.
  5. A multi-tool with allen keys etc.
  6. A travel pack of baby wipes to get your hands clean.
  7. Tyre levers.
  8. A small piece of inner tube to patch up a tyre tear.
Bag Two is my larger saddlebag which I use for longer sportives.  It contains all of the above plus: -
  1. An additional spare tube.
  2. Plenty of room to store emergency food.
  3. A waterproof.
  4. A space blanket in case of accident.
Before embarking on any long ride you should have the basic ability to fix a puncture, mend a broken chain and tighten/adjust any of the major elements that you have on the bike.

One great tip that I can pass on was passed on to me by Race-Pace.net guest blogger Mike Jackson, a former pro-team mechanic. If you've had your wheels off to mend a puncture, partly tighten your quick-release levers so that you can get the bike sitting on the wheels again (assuming it was previously upside down).

Then, loosen off the QR skewers again and put some weight on the saddle with your chest (rear tyre) or some weight on the handlebars (front tyre).  This will mean the wheel will find it's perfect spot in the frame lugs meaning that the rolling resistance will be in line, then tighten up the skewer with your weight on it.  This ensures a perfect fit each time.  If having done that, your brakes are rubbing, then adjust them with your allen key.

It's inevitable that your going to get punctures, tyre-splits, snapped chains from time to time.  Prevention is better than cure by having your bike serviced regularly and inspecting tyres, brake pads and chains for wear.  These things don't last forever, so keep an eye on them.

I always have a quick look when I get back home and give the bike a wash, but also ensure that my saddle bag has an item replaced if I ever have to use it as soon as possible, it's easy to forget.

Thursday, 7 July 2011

Buying your first Road Bike

Had a lot of questions via the blog of late asking advice about buying a new road bike. Here's  some articles I've previously posted which should help educate you quickly as to some of the key choices you might want to consider.
  • Road bike buyers guide here.
  • Guide to gearing here.
  • Clipless pedals for beginners here.
  • Aluminium or Carbon?  Article here.
  • Choosing the correct crank length.  Article here.

    Sunday, 15 May 2011

    Ten Tips from Andy Tennant

    Over the last few months I've been fortunate to ride out with Team GB and Rapha-Condor Pro - Andy Tennant.  On one our last runs out, we got talking about kit.  I asked Andy if he'd consider knocking a blog up on his Top 10 tips for us non super-humans on the road.  He's been good to his word, so you want to ride like a Pro?  Read on for some great tips: -

    I Have been riding now for 10 years. A relatively short time compared to some people. However in this short period I have been round some of the best riders and ridden the best kit in the World.

    Currently I am Ridding for Rapha-Condor-Sharp on the road and Represent GB on the track during the winter months. This means that I have to train all year round so I know how it feels to have cold hands - something I try and avoid at all costs!



    Now I could start listing all sorts of wonderful items of kit.  For example; the best track bike is the one I ride, but you'll need a small fortune to go and buy one of these.  My idea for my 10 products are 10 things that are not too expensive, but mainly things that I think will make your ride more enjoyable.  At the end of the day, if you don’t enjoy something you will never keep doing it, so here goes: -

    1. Chamois Cream. Saddle sores are not pleasant things. Riders have quit the Tour de France because of it.  You don’t need to suffer from this problem.  The main cause is chaffing, then this getting infected by sweat.   My recommendation is using a product called Aqueous cream, the Boots own brand is the best you can use and apply lots of it. Its inexpensive and a lot cheaper and more effective than many of the Chamois creams out there (Note from Phil.  I used this on the Fred Whitton following Andy's advice and found it to be A1).
    2. Get fitted up.  A beautiful carbon bike with carbon wheels are great however you will never get the best out of yourself unless it actually fits.  My second recommendation is a bike fit. My recommendation is to visit Claremont who you can find here.  This will help you enjoy your bike riding more and maybe actually make you go faster.
    3. Wool rules.  Friends always used to rave on about wool.  Being a young guy and man of the future, I always thought new technical fabrics would be the best. However, I am now a changed man.  This year I am lucky to be given Rapha kit and one thing they make is Merino wool undervests. They are a modern take on wool not like the 60s jersey - all I can say is amazing. I wear them all the time even off the bike.  I live in them. They're so good a new Pro-Tour team distributed them to their tour riders last year! 
    4. Recovery drinks.  People forget them and generally skip this important ritual. They get in off their ride and reach straight for the biscuit tin or whatever sweet sugary food is close to hand. I know because I do the same, however I always make sure I have my recovery drink to get in the carbs and the protein for recovery. At the end of the day its great doing all this training but unless you allow you body to recover you will never get better. So give yourself the best chance possible. everyone has different taste, my advice is try a few until you find one you like, but I like products from Science in Sport. 
    5. Tyres.  Lots of people by a brand new bike from the shops and when they do this they are looking at what cranks its got on and what handlebars make they have. No one seems to look at the tyres on the bike. The thing you are relying on the most when cycling.  If they go wrong you either are going to get dirty hands - as you have a puncture - or worse if you lose grip on a corner in the wet and you have a few nights of not great sleep with road rash or worst. So don’t be tight get yourself some good rubber. Continental GP 4000 are great fast reliable and grippy.
    6.  Heart rate monitor.  I think these are a great tool.  Don’t become too obsessed with them though, a lot of riders do. It’s a tool, and should be used in a combination with feel. They are really only super useful if you have done sports testing but great for giving you confidence if you are maintaining lower heart rate to get fitter. Or if you feel bad and your heart rate is really low it confirms it time to go home! Don’t think about spending you money on power measuring tools.  In my opinion they're not worth it and they just seem to break all the time!
    7.  Helmet. Quite simply it may save your life. If you by a high quality one you will forget you have it on I do I personally choose this one - Giro Aeon.     Great combination of lightweight and well ventilated.
    8. Good quality winter cycling kit. For me winter riding is made hard by my hands and feet being cold, I hate it!!  Some good quality gloves and and overshoes are a great start.  If its wet or really cold, try wrapping your feet in cling film and maybe some tinfoil.   For your hands some of those cheap latex gloves, hopefully this will keep you a bit warmer in the winter.
    9. Big frame pump.   I hate these little mini pumps.  Yes they look cool but when you're wet in winter and you need to blow your tyre up there is nothing worse than it taking too long than it needs to. Actually the worst is, when your waiting for someone else to pump there tyre up. If you haven’t got a pump, well you should have one.  There lots of makes out there. Just buy a quality one and when you puncture and you pump up easily then you will have a big smile on you face as you see people struggle with their mini pumps.  
    10.  Coffee - A cyclists best friend.  Go find yourself a nice coffee shop, preferably with nice cakes. Treat yourself,  go on make your easy ride even more enjoyably by getting a little coffee stop in.  Best thing though is to find a nice independent  shop. Good place to start http://www.beanhunter.com/

    Hopefully these 10 recommendations will make your bike riding more enjoyable.


    Andy Tennant.
    Twitter - @Tennanto