10 point survival guide to fixing a flat

Fixing a flat is an essential skill for a new road cyclist

Riding out this weekend, I was genuinely thrilled to see so many new road cyclists out and about.  The Wiggo and Olympics effect can genuinely be seen by the number of new shiny bikes, fluorescent kit and lung busting big gear efforts being made.  I wondered how many of them would know how to fix a puncture if they got one on their maiden voyage.

More fool me, about five miles after that thought - pssssst - I flatted.  After a quick change on auto-pilot, I thought to myself that this is a learned procedure from many punctures over the couple of years I'd been riding and perhaps these new riders could benefit from my quick guide to fixing a flat.

Items you should always have with you

• A spare inner tube with a valve long enough to fit your rim (normally 42mm covers most rims and you need Presta valves for a road bike).
• 3 x Tyre levers (two should normally suffice, but some tyres are tough).
• CO2 cannister or high pressure pump.

My 10 point survival guide to getting back on the road quickly is below: -

1. Remove items like trip computers, bottles and the items you need to fix your puncture BEFORE you flip the bike onto the bars and saddle.  Also release the quick release on the brakes so that you can get your wheel out quickly.
2. Be careful when you flip the bike over not to land it too quickly as this can lead to scuffs on your saddle and brake lever hoods.
3. Change the gear on the rear cassette so that the chain is sitting on the smallest cog possible before removing the wheel if the puncture is on the rear wheel.
4. Release the QR (quick release) lever and pull the wheel towards y ou, it should come out easily.
5. Using one tyre lever, hook it under your tyre rim and secure it on a spoke.  Use the other lever to flip another section of the tyre out until you can remove the tyre.
6. When done, remove the old inner tube aswell as the tyre from the rim.
7. Here's the bit most new cyclists miss.  It's important to see if there is anything inside the tyre which may have penetrated the outer surface.  If you don't remove it, you may well re-puncture. Carefully inspect with your eyes and fingers the tyre for any signs of debris and remove.  I made this mistake once and got three punctures on the trot.
8. When happy, mount one side of the tyre and then blow a little air into the inner tube with your mouth to give it some shape.  Push the valve through your rim and then position the tube inside the tyre before then folding the tyre back in on the remaining side to re-mount it.  If possible, re-mount it using hand pressure only.  If you have to use levers - be careful, you may well pinch the tyre.
9. Re-inflate the tyre before re-mounting the wheel on the bike.  I use a CO2 cannister for speed.  Make sure you put appropriate pressure in the tyre.
10. Re-mount the rear wheel and tighten the skewer, then get your bike up onto its wheels and re-set the brake calliper release.  Final tip is to then re-release the wheel skewer and put downward pressure on either the saddle or the bars (depending if it's rear or front) and the wheel will naturally find it's set point, then re-tighten the skewer.

I always fit a new tube when I'm riding, then take the tube back with me to either repair or re-cycle at home, it's far easier than fiddling around with patches and gets you on the road more quickly.  A bonus tip is to always carry a spare piece of inner tube in your saddle bag so that if your tyre gets a gash, you can put the tube inside the tyre to get you home.  Punctures are inevitable, follow these tips and you'll be back on the road quickly.

Houston, we've got a mechanical....

When you ride in larger groups, mechanicals and punctures have a propensity to appear with more frequency than normal.  Additionally, if you ride longer distances on your own, you need to be able to have the confidence to deal with a mechanical on the move.

Having a well equipped saddle bag, should allow you to cover most issues on the bike, however it is surprising how ill equipped some riders are when dealing with an issue on the move.  I run two saddlebags, using the same clip mounting mechanism on my rear saddle, allowing me to swap them over.

Bag one is my standard saddlebag.  It contains the following: -

1. A spare inner tube
2. A CO2 inflator and x2 gas cannisters
3. A link removal tool in the event of a chain snap.
4. An SRAM chain link, which allows you to connect your chain.  Only a few quid.
5. A multi-tool with allen keys etc.
6. A travel pack of baby wipes to get your hands clean.
7. Tyre levers.
8. A small piece of inner tube to patch up a tyre tear.

Bag Two is my larger saddlebag which I use for longer sportives.  It contains all of the above plus: -

1. An additional spare tube.
2. Plenty of room to store emergency food.
3. A waterproof.
4. A space blanket in case of accident.

Before embarking on any long ride you should have the basic ability to fix a puncture, mend a broken chain and tighten/adjust any of the major elements that you have on the bike.

One great tip that I can pass on was passed on to me by Race-Pace.net guest blogger Mike Jackson, a former pro-team mechanic. If you've had your wheels off to mend a puncture, partly tighten your quick-release levers so that you can get the bike sitting on the wheels again (assuming it was previously upside down).

Then, loosen off the QR skewers again and put some weight on the saddle with your chest (rear tyre) or some weight on the handlebars (front tyre).  This will mean the wheel will find it's perfect spot in the frame lugs meaning that the rolling resistance will be in line, then tighten up the skewer with your weight on it.  This ensures a perfect fit each time.  If having done that, your brakes are rubbing, then adjust them with your allen key.

It's inevitable that your going to get punctures, tyre-splits, snapped chains from time to time.  Prevention is better than cure by having your bike serviced regularly and inspecting tyres, brake pads and chains for wear.  These things don't last forever, so keep an eye on them.

I always have a quick look when I get back home and give the bike a wash, but also ensure that my saddle bag has an item replaced if I ever have to use it as soon as possible, it's easy to forget.

Purple Harry's Cleaning Products

Keeping your bike clean and in good working order is a pre-requisite of a trouble-free road run.  Particularly through the winter, it's important to keep your bike clean, particularly due to the amount of grit on the road.  I clean my bike down after all rides in the wet.  Keeping your prized investment in good working order will prolong it's life.

I've recently become a convert to Purple Harry's cleaning products.  I like Purple Harry's as they are UK business, which always gets my vote when it comes to share of my cycling wallet.  I'm always keen to support smaller businesses and Purple Harry's are a great example of a couple of guys doing something differently.

I've been using four of their products (see pic).  1) Cleaner/De-greaser 2) Bike Maintenance Spray 3) Polish and Protector 4) Bike Floss.

The cleaner/de-greaser does what it says on the label, a good spray all over the bike loosens off the dirt and brake dust post-ride.  With a soft cloth and some water, you can clean your bike really quickly.  Today, it took me five minutes from arriving home to having the bike back in the garage.

Post wash and dry, a quick spray over with the bike maintenance spray, ensures that everything stays lubricated.  I don't use the polish/protector after every ride, but it's good to have a product which can keep your paint in decent condition.  Like waxing a car it's easy to apply, leave it on for a few minutes and polish off.


Of the four products, the one that stands out with me most is the bike floss, like a bike pipecleaner, which allows you to get into those hard to reach areas.  Here's my rear cassette before/after a going over with the floss.

Rear Cassette before cleaning

Moving the floss between the cassette rings

After cleaning

As you can see it's positively gleaming.  The key thing is that I got it to this condition after only two or three minutes work.  You can buy the floss in various sizes, so theres a floss for those really awkward bits of your bike.  Each floss last for five or six cleans before disposal.

All the spray based products are hand pump, not aerosols, which get my vote.  Spray based cleaning products contain a lot of compressed air, so you know that you're getting a bottle full of products with hand pump products.   They are all available readily on eBay here, so no major fuss getting hold of them.  Give them a try.

10 Tips to Keep your Road Bike in Tip Top Condition

      Knowing a good bike mechanic (or spanner)  is like knowing an electrician or plumber, it will save you loads of money in the long term, and ensure you don't pay over the odds for things.  

      I'm fortunate enough to have recently met an ex pro-team mechanic just up the road from me when he built my new Onix Azzuro.  I asked him to put together some hints and advice to keep your road bike running smoothly. 

   

Chain

Check your chain for stretch at regular intervals. If it is .75% worn order and fit a new one. If it is beyond 1% check your cassette and chain rings for wear too.  As you finish cleaning your bike post ride lube your chain with a bike and condition specific quality lube.

Then remove as much of the oil with a clean cloth as is visible. Your chain really only needs the smallest of coatings on it and on the rollers and it stops everything attracting road detritus and gumming up.

Bar Tape

Learn to apply bar tape; it needs practice and dedication to get it right. If you wind it right, it  can be re used.  If you insist on white or light colours then it requires a lot of care to keep it looking that way!

Tyres

Choose tyres wisely and carefully. Some have fantastic reputations for grip and longevity. Aged tyres will last much longer than brand new ones, the rubber needs to cure properly.

When fitting I put the prominent tyre logo over the valve hole, makes it easier to find in the dark if you puncture. If you get a deep gash or hole in the outer rubber, let the pressure out of the tube and superglue it. Pinch the glued area for a few seconds and it should be fine for a little longer.

Bike Washing  

We all like cleaning our bikes right? It’s the best way to check for damage and wear.  Get a bucket with clean, warm, very soapy water.  If you think you’ve put in enough fairy liquid, put in some more!

Start at the top of your bike, saddle, bar, brake hoods then work down the frame. Do every inch of the frame, drive chain, rims, hubs, tyres, even under your saddle. If you get some stubborn grime, use a strong degreaser like Jizer (from Arco) or other water soluble degreaser and clean the offending muck.

Rinse with low pressure clean water and leave to dry a little. Polish the frame to finish off the job if you have time. Lube any pivots lightly and check that chain!

Cables

A pet hate of mine are missing cable ends. They cause no end of problems, not least meaning you need to replace a cable prematurely and an un-ended cable can harm a mechanic! If an end does fray, try to rewind it back or snip off the offending strand.

If you have a sticking shifter, check for properly routed outers or a kink in it. New 105 and Ultegra cables from the shifters can be tight on first fit if not routed behind the bar.

Clean the outer cable by spraying GT85 or WD40 through the outer until it runs clean, shake out any excess and replace on the bike. If it’s still sticky then, replace the outer. 

Torque it up

If you’re lucky enough to own a small fleet of bikes it is worth getting a torque wrench that is capable of going to very low settings. Most stem bolts go as low as 5 or 6 NM but don’t wade in to tighten them to that straight away. Step up from 2 to 4 to 5 or 6. It stops you over stressing your delicate components.

Read the instructions that came with the components you’re fitting and follow them, they will have tested them and know torque what is required. Ensure the faceplate is tightened in a diagonal pattern and you have a similar gap at the top and bottom of the plate.  Make sure you return the wrench to its lowest setting to let it rest in between uses.

Shifter Advice  

There are normally 2 adjusters in line for any mechanism on your bike. They can easily seize when you clean your bike regularly. To stop this happening you need to follow a few simple steps. Remove each adjuster from the frame and rear mech and clean the hole and thread. Grease and replace. Tighten until it stops then take out ½ to 1 turn.  This will help to reduce it seizing in the future and give a little flexibility for adjustment later on.

Once the cable is refitted, tighten the cinch bolt and shift to stretch the cable and settle the outer cable ends. Shift until the shifter stops and gently pull the cable away from the longest tube it runs along. This will stop it needing adjusting again after a few rides.

Shift to the highest gear and pull the cable back through the cinch bolt. Check the higher and lower stops on the mech and adjust the indexing between gears. This is best observed on YouTube, just type in gear adjustment or look on the Park Tools website.

Cutting a Steerer Tube

If you fit a new fork or decide to shorten your existing steerer tube you really should use a dedicated cutting guide. These can be a little expensive and you may only use it once. Unless you have the patience of a saint or the steady hand of a sniper you will need to bodge a guide.

I have been known to cut steerers in the field and have used masking tape, headset spacers and ty wraps. Not ideal but it gets you by.

Measure a couple of times and write down the size you are going to cut off. It’s usually a disaster if you get your measurements wrong, you have been warned. If in doubt get a shop to do it.

That Annoying Noise

There can be nothing more frustrating than a creak or a click from your bike, somewhere! It really could be coming from anywhere on the modern carbon monocoque. It does not mean there is an issue or problem but if you have greased and checked the usual culprits, cranks, headset, crank bolts, seatpost, etc, give all the joints a quick blast with GT85. 

This usually cures the noise. If it doesn’t, turn up your iPod or try to ignore it!

And Finally

Invest in some quality Allen keys; they keep your bolts moving for longer.

Keep your pressure up in your tyres, 90-110 PSI (6.2-7.5 BAR), a little less if it’s wet.

Clean out the grooves in your brake blocks to help with braking. Pick out any spots of alloy from the face of the blocks too, these increase rim wear at an incredible rate. 

About the Author

Started off by fixing my own bikes as a kid and after joining the military I attended several 24 hour MTB events as a mechanic then chief mechanic. I did RAAM as a driver/mechanic and then looked after several military teams at week long MTB races. 

I got my big break and worked for a couple of pro road teams, Recycling.co.uk, Rapha Condor, Kinesis and Team Raleigh. I am now a freelance mechanic and build bikes for Onix Bikes.

You can follow Mike (and ask him questions) on Twitter here.  If you can get your bike to Mike, he can do the following: -

Full Service, Strip, Diagnostic Check & Rebuild. £50.
Report supplied on return, all areas cleaned, greased and adjusted.
Parts are extra to the quoted price. Any supplied component can be fitted in this price.


Partial Service, Inspection & Diagnostic Check, £30.
Report supplied on return, bike returned clean and adjusted.
Parts are extra to the quoted price. Any supplied components can be fitted in this price.


All other work, price on request.  You must arrange drop off and collection.  Contact Mike by e-mail at jackos102@hotmail.com.